Tuesday, September 22, 2015

Practice Report

Practice last night was good. I had a couple more realizations about New Sword Magic. I've finished writing two blog posts on the subject, except that I need to create photos and animations to describe the concepts involved.

I fought pickups against several people. The purpose of my pickups was to see how this different way of thinking about opposition is applicable. A note: I use the term "Sad Zone" in this post. This is the ideal place to push against someone's sword for opposition. I will not go into how I determine the location of the Sad Zone here.

As a note, I was literally bouncing this practice, that's how happy and excited I was for the pickups portion. As the tournament happened, I slipped into tournament headspace. That was good! It means I am able to switch between headspaces as needed.

My first set of pickups was against a buckler fighter. I ended up getting touched when he was able to isolate my sword and grab on to its location with his sword and/or buckler. I ended up touching him with a cutting thrust over his arm, directly through the Sad Zone of his sword. Additionally, I was able to perform several single-tempo passing-step dagger-pushes into the Sad Zone of his sword, when I moved my sword to the far outside line. I wasn't able to capitalize on it like I thought I should have been. Perhaps I should have gone for arm cuts or leg thrusts during the tempi in which I completely owned his sword.

My next set was against the Doctor. He was not feeling super well, and even so I think that the fights went more than 50% in his favor. He uses two long swords, and using my knowledge of principles in New Sword Magic, I was able to determine that the Sad Zone of his swords was much farther back than I had previously expected. As such, I was able to perform many cuts and pushes which actually gained good opposition against his swords. I feel like there is quite a bit of room for me to improve my execution of the principles of New Sword Magic, so that's pretty exciting to me.

After that, I fought another buckler fighter. She used her buckler more offensively and kept her sword much lower. I had trouble applying my principles of opposition to her, because she kept doing all these really good things that I didn't expect. Eventually I settled on a tactic of getting into Fabris Plate 60 stance and letting my dagger drift around defensively, while alternating high/low and high/high fakes. I could probably have done that same thing I mention above for the other buckler fighter, to her. Oh well, live and learn.

My last set of fights was against someone fighting with a dagger and a shorter sword. She was fighting primarily in a Fabris stance that I do not think is Good and True. I have seen this stance several times, and I have never liked it. Her stance exposed the Sad Zone of her sword, and as such I was able to push through that area using Compound Thrusts. That is to say, a particular type of line-change, combined with a particular type of cutting thrust. 

There was also a tournament! I fought in it and won it.

Several people did good things. I got booped in the nose because I did not close the line far enough, which is apparently a danger when performing a cutting thrust from the inside line using New Sword Magic. I need to work really hard on it before K&Q Rapier, in order to not shoot myself in the foot with New Sword Magic by doing something like that.

The other pass I lost was one in which I had cane, and he had buckler. There was a bunch of messiness, and I got legged. Then there was more messiness, and we both thought that we might have hit with thrusts, so we re-fought from the point at which I was legged. Eventually he took the pass and I don't even remember how. I think it was a thrust from his left side, using his right hand? Not sure.

But yeah. It was a good practice. I learned a lot.

Monday, September 21, 2015

Rose Tournament, and a preview of New Blade Magic

Rose Tournament went well. My team won, which is nice. Everybody in my team had more wins than losses, which is also nice.

I was sort of work-hung-over, so my attitude toward my fighting during the tournament wasn't that great. I had a lot of good fights, and so many courteous people. Such courtesy. So fighting. Wow.

My first loss was either my first or second fight in the tournament. I fought a guy who I had seen around, but never fought before. As such, I made the terrible error of assuming that he would not be a skilled fighter. I posted my sword, assuming I'd just be able to ace him quickly. That was not the case. He did the correct thing, gaining my sword deeply. I grabbed some pickups with him later, and he's really good. Victory wasn't a sure thing for me against him, but I certainly handed the win to him on a silver platter.

My second loss was to a guy who I have fought and won against in tournaments before. He's quite good. There was an iffy maybe-push-cut and around the same time, I had a draw cut. I suggested we re-fight it, because he seemed confident that he had the cut and I was pretty confident that I had locked his sword pretty far outside of my head. It was also clearly evident that he did not at all feel my false-edge draw-cut.

We re-fought, and he caught me square in the gorget with a cross-shot over his right arm, after I had taken his blade and I was preparing to stab him. It was fine, it was good, and I'm not 100% sure what I could have done differently. I need to figure out if New Blade Magic has any relevance to cross-shots with case swords. It might be able to teach me a better way to take case swords so that the cross-shot isn't open, so that would be cool.

Aside from that it was a pretty good day. I got pickups with the first guy I lost to, and those were good. New Blade Magic seems to have clicked to the point that I can do neat things. This is good, because I spent the first half of the tournament wrestling with New Blade Magic, instead of being able to just call upon the reactions which I know work. A blog post is brewing, but it's going to take some time to fully explain it. I will probably try to explain it to people at practice, just to see if it makes any sense outside of my brain.

As a preview, New Blade Magic provides:
  • An explanation of how and where people can disengage from.
  • A way to determine the exact correct area to push on your opponent's sword, and why that is the case.
  • A digression on what "back-weighted" actually means in the context of a sword, and what that gains you relative to "front-weighted" swords.
Have a good day everyone!

Friday, September 11, 2015

New Geometry on the Inside Line

The new geometry described in the previous entry, worked pretty well.


Stance Description

The stance ended up as a very profiled stance. The hilt went slightly to the left of my body, and the forte crossed over the rest of my body, frequently ending up with my tip pointing quite a bit off-line. This was because I needed to use my forte to defend myself against their debole, and the way most people fight on the inside line involves putting your sword very far over theirs on the inside line.

My hand ended up naturally rising when entering this guard, but I think that's because I was profiling my body. I could not find a comfortable place for my dagger, so it ended up drifting to various places. My hand ended up changing between being in seconda and in terza, which is about as expected.

None of the single-tempo actions I expected to work were the ones which ended up working. I had expected to be able to get a single-tempo on-line thrust to work well. This almost never worked, because my opponents never felt comfortable having me on their inside line. Usually this resulted in my opponent pushing me even deeper toward the inside line.


Successful Actions

The most successful actions ended up being two-tempo actions. One example was a two-tempo false-edge push upwards into a single-tempo thrust, from my sword being in seconda-terza below theirs. This ended up being a relatively safe action because of how this stance covers itself, and because of how far offline my opponent's blade had to go in order to push me offline. Also, the fact that my tip tended to be lower than my opponent's tip, despite my hilt being above their hilt. A less steep angle seems to be a thing with this stance.

Another successful action ended up being a straight-in thrust, leading to a passing step with a dagger-cover, void, and yield around. I would try to thrust straight-in, which forced my opponent to parry hard to the inside. This meant I knew where my opponent's sword would be, so I could take a passing step, covering with my dagger. If my opponent parried particularly high, then the dagger was not necessary, the body void being sufficient to protect me.

The last successful action was a response to my opponent pushing hard inside and downwards, with their tip lower than their hilt. It was a simple disengage to the left around their hilt. This is extremely fast, because the action initiates in the direction of my true edge. It ends up touching in my opponent's flank, past that beautiful and hard-to-parry part of the crook of the arm.


Less Successful Actions

When my opponent didn't give me blade engagement, I felt like I could not do very much. In theory I should have been able to strike in the tempo of their disengage, but in practice my sword ran into their dagger most of the time when this happened.

Additionally, if this stance really is what Giganti wanted, it should have been easy to strike through a disengage-thrust. This was decidedly not the case. I would usually catch the parry, but then my tip would go wide. I think that is a problem of execution on my part though, not a problem with the geometry itself. I shall need to think on this.


Going Forward

For the future, I need to work on my single-intent actions from this new inside guard. My intuition says that as my two-tempo actions improve, this will open up options for single-tempo actions. The two-tempo actions listed above all take advantage of my opponent's guard being very "big" - as in, "oh, you're on the inside line, I am going to very firmly cover your blade". I think that if I fight someone using a "smaller" guard, I will have more success with single-tempo actions.

Additionally, it's interesting to note how many of my go-to actions on the outside line are two-tempo. The most successful ones are still the single-tempo actions, but the two-tempo actions are very necessary to make opportunities for the single-tempo actions.

This stance is still not ready for tournament primetime, but it's well on its way to being useful.

Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Heretical Thoughts About Giganti

I have something to confess - I have been having heretical thoughts about the text of Giganti, as translated by Tom Leoni. The following is the result of a couple of hours of research. I could be wrong, and if you have evidence that I am wrong, please show it to me and I would be happy to edit this entry. I do not want to mislead others.

Additionally, if the geometry and techniques resulting from this end up being ineffective, I will edit this entry to reflect such, so that others do not begin down an ineffective path.

Why Should I Even Care?

One thing which has always bothered me about Leoni's Giganti is how Leoni specifies that in the inside guard, your tip should be pointing toward your opponent's right shoulder. There are several reasons that this just does not feel like it works. 

First off, it is impossible for you and your opponent to both be in this position. Sure, if you can force your opponent out of that position and take it for yourself, it's nice. But unless you are in an unsafe and impractical position which exposes both of you, then it is impossible for both you and your opponent to be on the inside line.

Second, the thrust is an unsafe action from the inside line. Giganti is concerned with safety above all things. He repeatedly chastises people who fight in a way that would cause what he calls a "double-hit". However, if you take your opponent's sword and then thrust from Leoni's Giganti guard, you create a line for your opponent to thrust at you. If your opponent is an inexperienced fencer, he might do exactly that. Or if he has a dagger that he intends to parry with, or any number of other, unpredictable factors.

Note that it is possible to perform a safe thrust from Leoni's Giganti guard, by pushing your hand toward your opponent's blade and then directing your sword to them. However it is slower, and from experience it ends up feeling more like a tempo-and-a-half action, rather than a single-tempo action.

Additionally, I have been recently thinking about alternate ways to adopt an inside guard. This does give me an agenda in this - I am working from necessity and looking to historical precedent for guidance. I will not go into my entire argument for this, but I feel it is good way to do things, due to the ambiguity of historical sources in many places.


What Does the Text Specify About the Plates?

Due to the above reasons, I decided to take a closer look at the actual text and words of the translation. In the actual text of Leoni's translation of Giganti's words on guards, it isn't specified which guard is inside and which one is outside. Is this actually true in the historical source?

http://mac9.ucc.nau.edu/manuscripts/giganti.pdf
(Look at page 11, GUARDIE OVERO POSTURE)

Survey says nope, as far as I can tell. This makes sense, because Leoni's translations are beautiful, generally carrying the intent of the words faithfully. In the translation by Leoni, the order is not specified. It is true that the inside guard is mentioned first in the text, but that doesn't necessarily mean that figure 2 is the inside guard, and figure 3 is the outside guard.


How Does the Text Specify You Should Place Your Blade?

Since there was no direct reference to an image which I could find, I decided to dive into an attempted translation of the text. My Italian is nonexistent, but with the help of multiple dictionaries, I was able to figure out that the reference text I was using didn't explicitly rule out the idea that by saying that you should place your sword "over" theirs, it could mean that you should put it "between" you and their sword.

It's a bit of a stretch, but stay with me.


What Do the Images Themselves State?

For these images, the text specifies that one is on the inside line, and the other is on the outside line. Given that the earlier PDF I linked doesn't have very good images, we turn to a later translation of this book:


And the high-resolution images for these plates:
(indicated by Leoni as the fencer to the left taking the blade on the inside)

(indicated by Leoni as the fencer to the left taking the blade on the outside)

It is worth noting at this point that these are not the only reproductions and material that I looked at. These are just the highest-quality, and none of the other material contradicted this material. Indeed, in the versions of the plates used in Leoni's book, Figure 3 looks like they are on the inside, as I argue below.

I looked desperately at many different reproductions of these plates. In particular, I looked for indications of which sword was closer to us at the cross. This is the easiest piece to see aside from hand position, and even this is infuriatingly difficult to decode. Giganti does not help us, expecting us to figure out which fencer is in a better position by ourselves.


Figure 2, even in this higher-quality version, is infuriating. It is hard to tell which blade is closer to the viewer at the cross. It might be the fencer on the left? Additionally, the shading seems to indicate that the fencer on the left has his hand tilted to his left, with respect to his arm. If the image is to be believed, we can see the start of his fingers, which would not be possible were he in quarta or between terza and quarta. This means he is between seconda or terza. As for the fencer on the right, there is nothing noteworthy about his stance.

This seems to indicate that these fencers are on the inside line, and that the fencer on the left is pressing on his opponent's sword with his false edge. This seems less than ideal for the fencer on the left, even though his sword is closer to being pointed at the other guy's face.


Figure 3, at this higher quality, becomes far clearer. The fencer on the left's sword is clearly closer to us at the cross. This means that the fencers are on the inside line. The fencer on the left is once again in seconda. It seems pretty clear that this is on the inside line. As well, the fencer on the right has his sword pointed more toward the fencer on the left's face. Lastly, from the quillon positioning of the fencer on the right, it seems like his tip is pointed more toward his opponent's left shoulder.


If both of these are on the inside, then Giganti has explicitly lied in his manual. I would prefer to imagine that Giganti is not lying, so I imagine that the one which looks more like the outside line is Figure 2, since the single line of the fencer on the right's sword drawn over the fencer on the left's sword makes it look as though the fencer on the right's sword might be closer to the viewer after all. This results in something interesting.


Context

Giganti cares very much about the idea of counter-guards. He mentions them in this section of the book, and in an earlier section states that "guards" aren't the appropriate thing to create, but that you should always work to create a counter-guard instead of a guard. If we take this into account (and ignore the fact that the models change between plates), and we assume that Figure 2 depicts the outside line, we get the following sequence:

In Figure 2, the fencer on the right (Dexter) assumes a completely generic guard in terza. The fencer on the left (Sinestro), being a knowledgeable and savvy fencer, assumes a counter-guard on the outside. Note that his tip is pointing at his opponent's head more than the reverse. This fact is hard to see at first, but because Dexter is taller than Sinestro, it is true.

In this plate, we should model ourselves after Sinestro.

In Figure 3, Dexter sees Sinestro's counter-guard. Dexter, also being a savvy fencer, adopts a counter-guard on the inside line. Presumably there was a disengage somewhere in here. Note that Sinestro has not changed his guard in any major fashion. Dexter now firmly points toward his opponent's head, and, assuming that Dexter's wrist is bent and pointing his tip at Sinestro's left shoulder, this forms a ramp which would push Sinestro's tip off-line if Sinestro tries to thrust directly in. We can tell from Dexter's body posture that he expects to be on the inside line, whereas Sinestro still expects to be on the outside line.

In this plate, we should model ourselves after Dexter.


Further Context

One last interesting note - the postures specified by me here, in which the inside guard points over your opponent's left shoulder and the outside guard points over your opponent's right shoulder, force your opponent to make the largest disengage possible if they want to disengage.

I have also gone through several plates separately and this alternate inside-line posture seems to make quite a bit of sense. 

It seems safer against double-kills, which is a deep concern of Giganti's. It also seems generally easier to execute the actions specified by Giganti in this guard. And lastly, it allows for a neutral position between two fencers in an inside guard, so that they can wrestle over the center line and force each other to disengage. As well, my intuition tells me that Giganti fought with far heavier swords than later period masters. This position would allow you to pivot around your blade's center of balance, which would allow for much more agile movements than otherwise.


Closing Remarks

Obviously, this means nothing without testing. I have done separate geometry about this alternate guard, and will be bringing this new paradigm to practice on Thursday. There, it will face a number of opponents. I will need to bring it multiple practices in order to confirm or deny its efficacy. After all, this is why we imitate the period masters - they are theoretically the most effective fencers of a bygone age.

I hope this has been educational, or at least entertaining, to all who read this.


All references for this entry with the exception of Tom Leoni's excellent book were found on the Wiktenauer page on Nicoletto Giganti's book, Scola, overo teatro.

Tom Leoni's excellent book is a fantastic resource which I still suggest you get. It is available at this link.

Sunday, September 6, 2015

Quick Report on Things

The first Thing did not work so well. This is because a false-edge cut on their blade with an effective amounts of force is super hard to perform if they are thrusting or stationary. Maybe this would work better with a full-circle cut, rather than a half-circle cut. Maybe this is a lost cause for the situation I'm trying to apply it to. It requires such a hard body-void to make things work.

The second Thing I did not end up trying very much. It made many situations feel much more dangerous, which was not great. I would need to perform so much more geometry to use this that I am electing to not mess with it for now. It would essentially be a new style, centering around rotating from the wrist around the point of balance of one's blade. And while it seems like an interesting style that I have already learned elementary bits of, I'm not ready to commit to it yet.

The third Thing has promise. I feel as though it might be better with the more German-ish thumb-on-the-ricasso grip, rather than my standard Rada-esque index-finger-on-the-side-of-the-ricasso grip. That would involve learning to use the fullness of the thumb-on-ricasso grip, which can be a long-term goal, but not a short-term one. Despite the fact that technically Rada uses the thumb-on-ricasso grip as well. Hm.

Perhaps placing my flat or false edge toward my opponent's blade would be easier on my wrist? One of the problems is that it feels weak against my opponent's blade. In retrospect, though, I'm not sure that actually caused any real problems for my opposition. I think that this is a thing which deserves more study, so I should spend serious time fighitng in this guard in practice, and then flow-charting out possible responses and possible good choices for my opponent in response to this.

As well, I did some good work in working through a couple of situations that were gnawing at the back of my brain.

The response I came up with against sword-first dagger-back guard seemed to work well, with the caveat that it is absolutely vital that I not initiate the action if my sword is farther toward their guard than about 5/8 of the way down their blade. This is different from my normal ideal zone of opposition - here, I want to take opposition about 5/8 of the way down their blade to about 1/8 of the way down their blade.

The action is a passing diagonal step to the left, at the same time taking their blade in the specified area and using the natural rotation of my body from the passing step to interpose my dagger such that a disengage or thrust to my flank is impossible. If I gain opposition any farther back, then it seems possible for them to lever my blade out of the way and thrust. If I do oppose correctly, their only option is a two-tempo parry-riposte, which I should be able to move my dagger to catch in time, leaving my sword at liberty.

Much thanks to the unnamed fencer who helped me sort this out.

The confusing situation which happened a few weeks ago, in which my hilt-first disengage completely did not do the defensive things that it should have done, and also completely jacked an unnamed fencer in the ribs, has been solved. The issue was that my opponent threw a thrust in prima. which meant that my push toward his hilt completely missed. Additionally, I did not perform the appropriate oblique left-foot step that this action should require. I think that a diagonal rightward lunge would also have worked, but we were in too close quarters to do that.

I need to make sure that I perform my footwork in fighting exactly how I perform it in my at-home drilling. Because at home, I do that step all the time. In combat, it's hard to do that step unless your opponent is coming in on you.

Additionally, I'm not sure that pushing my hilt toward their sword is always the best option. I believe that the straight-upward raise blocks off actions in prima far more effectively. It also restricts their sword to the half of my body which is far away, meaning that it is much more likely that my dagger can pick them up. I need to think Very Hard about this, because that hilt-first disengage is one of my bread-and-butter techniques in tournaments.

Friday, September 4, 2015

Random Arbitrary List of Things to Try

Thing 1: A type of false-edge cutting parry progressing smoothly into an offense of one's own.

First off, there is a video showing Puck Curtis doing some magic:


Defeating a circular reves with a tajo (and again using the same setup to defeat it with a medio reves).
Posted by Puck Curtis on Thursday, May 7, 2015
Paraphrasing Puck's explanation into less Destreza-coded terminology goes something like this:

  • Puck takes his opponent's blade to the inside.
  • His opponent, needing to extract his blade, takes a step and pulls his blade away using only his wrist, without making further contact with Puck's blade. This motion is intended to end in a left-to-right cut on Puck's face.
  • Puck performs a wrist movement to get his tip from one side of his opponent's body to the other. 
  • Then, he performs a false-edge cut into his opponent's blade as his opponent's cut is about 1/4 of a circle from completion. This disrupts the cut, because it is force perpendicular to the force of the cut.
  • Then, Puck uses the continuing motion of his sword to perform a similar cut of his own, this time right-to-left
The false-edge disruption is very interesting. It means that the second half of a Destreza-style tajo or reves doesn't need to be the part which defends against your opponent's action. This means that with an appropriate wrist flick, you could turn the second half of the cut cut into a whip-thrust, as follows:
  • Begin cutting from right to left, with your blade starting near your head (180 degrees from target).
  • Just after you reach pass through 90 degrees from target, push your hand to the right, allowing the point of balance of the blade to continue spinning.
  • Let the tip land on your target.
Of course, this form of whip-thrust will land a bit hard if you do not practice superior control of it. So control it, and everything will be fine.

I feel like this form of false-edge parry-or-beat into whip-thrust might have interesting application in the Italian style. In particular for hilt-higher-than-point guards, which I have reason to believe would be useful against left-handed fencers.


Thing 2: Guards in which your point is lower than your hilt, against left-handed fencers.

Recently, I have been having more and more relative trouble performing geometry against left-handed fencers. I have come to believe that this is because, against a left-handed fencer, it is possible for a fight to be nearly mirrored. As such, it is very difficult to gain any real opposition. Additionally, both fencers face the inside-line problem.

That is to say, there is no line that I can draw from my hand through the weak of my opponent's sword which connects to their body, if they are fencing correctly. This, of course, being the safest way to stab your opponent in my opinion. I feel as though this is because of the above-mentioned mirror issue. A supinated guard or other guard in which one's point is lower than one's hilt would create an element of "opposite-ness", which my intuition tells me should be exploitable. However, the action outlined in the next thing might be better for this.

Afterthought: Maybe in the spirit of Giganti's bastard guards between seconda and terza and terza and quarta, I should try a bastard guard between prima and seconda or between prima and quarta? It sounds awkward, but it also sounds fun.


Thing 3: An inside guard in which the hilt is far to the left and the tip is far to the right.

I have a well-known hatred for the inside line. I believe it is a source primarily of double-kills. This is because in standard tournament-fighting, one takes the inside line to the far left. This puts you in a similar position as against a left-handed fighter. There is no connecting line from your hand through your opponent's weak, into your opponent. However, I have seen a particular guard performed before, and I could have sworn that I just read about it in Capoferro's treatise. However I cannot find it, thus I shall describe it as follows.

Adopt a standard Giganti guard on the outside, as though you are facing an opponent who is also guarding on the outside. Your hand should be slightly to the right. Your tip should sort of be pointing above their right shoulder, such that they cannot thrust without encountering your blade. Then, turn your hand to terza-quarta guard. Note how far to the left your tip is, and how far to the right your hand is. Readjust such that your hand is as far to the left as your tip was, and your tip is as far to the right as your hand was. This will be an awkward position for your wrist. Deal with it.

This position makes it difficult for your opponent to gain satisfactory opposition. From this location if your opponent is lax in their guard, it should be possible to draw a line connecting your hand to your opponent through their sword. If you find them in such a position, perhaps you should oblige their invitation by stabbing them in the face. If your opponent does attempt to gain opposition, an inquartata-step (step forward and to the right with your left foot, so they end up about the same distance from your opponent) to the right should be sufficient to nullify their opposition. If they disengage, you can easily unroll into a thrust in seconda that should easily catch their disengage.

Obviously this all requires quite a bit of play and testing. But I am willing to do this, if for no reason other than the fact that this guard seems like it will behave similarly to my beloved outside line.

Tuesday, September 1, 2015

Post-Monday Practice Report

This last practice was so good. I am currently on a diet because I am above my ideal weight. I didn't really feel the effects of low blood sugar like I thought I would, though. This might be because of the SFRB (Sugar-Free Red Bull) I chugged on the way to practice. Regardless, I didn't feel slower than usual, which tells me that loading up with carbs before practice can be replaced with SFRB.

I played with my newly-constructed longsword handle. It was pretty great! I threw one hard thrust, which I think was hard partly because of the angle of the shot and partly because of where the shot landed. I didn't really feel that limited by not having a dagger. The heavier, stiffer blade with the two-handed handle allowed me to simply win at opposition most of the time.

I did some Meyer stuff too - a Krumphauw into a false-edge-leading thrust ended up being surprisingly effective. There were several cuts and thrusts that I simply didn't throw out there, though, because I wasn't sure I could perform them in a way that would land with the tip safely. I could hit with the edge with good calibration I think, but I need more practice to hit with the tip after a properly-performed Zornhauw with good calibration. And to do that, I need to use a practice space with a higher roof than my living room has.

Last longsword thought - I think that a longsword might be more effective than my standard rapier game against left-handed people. This is because right-handed cuts seem to cut cross the plane of a left-handed person's rapier more than a right-handed person's rapier. This is a random thought, and requires further investigation.

The rest of the practice was fought sword and dagger. I fought quite a few people who I have fought before, and they all are doing super well. I need to step up my game. In particular, there was one fight in which I was doing my little hilt-first disengage as a first-intention shot, and my opponent just threw out a cut to my blade in response. This put me way off line and allowed her to cut me, even though her thrust went past my head. I need to contemplate this particular response, and see if there is anything I can do about it. If not, then I will only be able to use my hilt-first disengage as part of a second intention, after I have gotten a feel for where my opponent's sword is.

I also fought against another guy who primarily fights in the HEMA/WMA community. Those fights were super interesting. I didn't realize until part of the way through that he was fighting a slightly different ruleset that took percussive hits, mostly ignored cuts, and mostly ignored hand and arm shots. That's okay though! It just meant that he and I walked away with a different idea of our win/loss percentage. If this were a tournament, I would be super salty about it. But it wasn't, and I'm not out to prove something, so it's okay.

I significantly disagree with not taking hand-shots as a ruleset, though. I think it encourages poor form. Capoferro advises that you perform them, and I believe he even advises them primarily against stances where your opponent's dagger is in front, which is a stance which gives me quite a bit of trouble. (If I am incorrect here, someone please correct me.)

Afterwards I caught up to him because I wanted to try working through a particular action in response to his particular stance. He did the teacher thing of going through a lesson he thought was more relevant, rather than the particular isolated set of actions which I wanted to try. It was an interesting lesson about passing steps and two-tempo parry-ripostes. The end result was that his response would have been something I didn't expect. But it still didn't answer my question really.

I like to imagine that I operate from a model based on Meyer's idea of the master cuts. That is to say, a master cut is one which will both defend you and kill the other guy, if correctly performed in the correct situation. When I am working through a particular situation, I try to figure out what the appropriate "master thrust" would be. That is to say, the action which, properly executed, will prevent me from being stabbed no matter what my opponent does, and has a decent chance of success.

Given that, and given the dagger-forward position I was having trouble with, I wanted to see if a passing step to the left with a chest-level thrust with the sword held low and the dagger brought in against the sword to sweep the expected disengage, would have worked. His response was a two-tempo parry-riposte. I'm not sure that would have been applicable given the location and direction of opposition I had wanted. I am sure I will ask someone to work through that particular action with me at some point.

I also had a few good talks about headspace in tournaments. I think I do well at this thing, so maybe I should meditate on that and make a post or something.

Things to work on for the future:

  • Appropriate responses to Silver-esque dagger-forward stances.
    • It seems like there's a continuum of responses, wherein dagger slightly forward gives an advantage against a Capoferro stance in third, and dagger very forward in a Silver-esque stance gives even more advantage against that. Is there a good response other than reverting to Capoferro in third and hand-sniping?
    • It feels like left-handed people are automatically one step farther forward with their dagger, regardless of their actual stance. This is purely intuitive, but why do things feel this way? Again, is there a good response for me?
  • More flowcharting on hilt-first disengage.